Dinner – Thursday, April 4, 2019 Based on two meals a few months apart, I thought Birdsong was one of my favourite new restaurants in 2018 – the menu was focused, the kitchen worked like a well-oiled machine, and the front-of-house was well-trained. They were duly rewarded with a Michelin star at the end of […]

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Dinner – Saturday, March 16, 2019 I had not visited Saison in some time, but news that Laurent Gras had assumed the mantle of head chef was sufficient motivation. I was familiar with his food from L2O, back when we lived in Chicago (dangerously, a mere two blocks away from the restaurant). L2O fully deserved […]

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Single Thread

Lunch – Saturday, February 23, 2019 Single Thread was elevated to 3* in the 2019 Red Guide. We’ve dined there quite regularly since their opening at the end of 2016 (I count 9 menus in my collection), and for a place we are so familiar with, my expectations don’t change despite what the Michelin man […]

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Dinner – Sunday, February 17, 2019 I last visited Manresa in 2012 – over 6 years ago! That’s a lifetime in the food industry, and indeed the restaurant has risen from the (literal) ashes twice, having suffered serious fires in 2014 and 2018. The cooking is evidently none the worse for wear, as the restaurant […]

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Il Ristorante Luca Fantin

Lunch – Saturday, February 2, 2019 A solo lunch afforded me the opportunity to visit one of Tokyo’s leading modern Italian restaurants, perched atop the Bulgari building in Ginza. I had pre-ordered the Menu Luca Fantin – their lengthiest tasting menu. Champagne (or rather, Italian bubbly) in hand and with a pleasant view of Ginza, […]

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Dinner – Tuesday, December 18, 2018 Josh Skenes’ new restaurant has been open for a few months, but I hadn’t the time to visit until now – of course, it had to be on the heels of it being named one of Esquire’s best new restaurants of 2018, driving its popularity through the roof. Fortunately, […]

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Dinner – Friday, November 23, 2018 Thomas Frebel was a core member of noma for many years, serving as its head of R&D, and now he has made a home in Tokyo. With him, he has brought a group of ex-noma team members and other “nomads”. I skipped noma’s 2015 residency at the Mandarin Oriental […]

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Momofuku Ko

Dinner – Wednesday, October 17, 2018 I never dined at the original incarnation of Ko – my loss, I’m sure. The current grown-up, polished version of Ko has occupied its current space in the East Village since ~2014 (and just expanded last year). An entire wall of the restaurant is dominated by steel fridges holding […]

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Dinner – Friday, October 5, 2018 With only one night in Chicago, I struggled to choose a restaurant to visit – so many good options! Noah Sandoval’s Oriole and Iliana Regan’s Elizabeth were strong contenders, but I ultimately decided to revisit Smyth. We had a very good meal there¬†shortly after it opened in 2016, and […]

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Single Thread

Lunch – Saturday, September 22, 2018 Having recently revisited The Willows Inn at the end of August, and in anticipation of a return to Smyth in early October, I decided to make a quick pit stop at Single Thread to catch up – the five months since our last dinner here has been my longest […]

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