Il Ristorante Luca Fantin

Lunch – Saturday, February 2, 2019 A solo lunch afforded me the opportunity to visit one of Tokyo’s leading modern Italian restaurants, perched atop the Bulgari building in Ginza. I had pre-ordered the Menu Luca Fantin – their lengthiest tasting menu. Champagne (or rather, Italian bubbly) in hand and with a pleasant view of Ginza, […]

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Dinner – Tuesday, December 18, 2018 Josh Skenes’ new restaurant has been open for a few months, but I hadn’t the time to visit until now – of course, it had to be on the heels of it being named one of Esquire’s best new restaurants of 2018, driving its popularity through the roof. Fortunately, […]

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Dinner – Friday, November 23, 2018 Thomas Frebel was a core member of noma for many years, serving as its head of R&D, and now he has made a home in Tokyo. With him, he has brought a group of ex-noma team members and other “nomads”. I skipped noma’s 2015 residency at the Mandarin Oriental […]

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Momofuku Ko

Dinner – Wednesday, October 17, 2018 I never dined at the original incarnation of Ko – my loss, I’m sure. The current grown-up, polished version of Ko has occupied its current space in the East Village since ~2014 (and just expanded last year). An entire wall of the restaurant is dominated by steel fridges holding […]

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Dinner – Friday, October 5, 2018 With only one night in Chicago, I struggled to choose a restaurant to visit – so many good options! Noah Sandoval’s Oriole and Iliana Regan’s Elizabeth were strong contenders, but I ultimately decided to revisit Smyth. We had a very good meal there shortly after it opened in 2016, and […]

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Single Thread

Lunch – Saturday, September 22, 2018 Having recently revisited The Willows Inn at the end of August, and in anticipation of a return to Smyth in early October, I decided to make a quick pit stop at Single Thread to catch up – the five months since our last dinner here has been my longest […]

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The Willows Inn

Dinner – Sunday, August 26, 2018 It’s hard to believe that our first (and only) visit to Lummi Island was two years ago – where has the time gone? More recently, we enjoyed Blaine Wetzel’s food at the three-way collaboration dinner with Smyth and Single Thread. This was sufficient motivation to plan a prompt return […]

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Dinner – Saturday, June 30, 2018 Despite hearing some good things about it, I never made it to Rodney Wages’ (ex-Saison, ex-Benu, ex-Atelier Crenn) extended pop-up restaurant, RTB. He ultimately decided to put down roots in the Fillmore, in the same space that hosted his pop-up – enter Avery (named after the abstract painter Milton […]

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Dinner – Saturday, June 9, 2018 Birdsong is a beautiful restaurant – from its open kitchen with a wood-burning hearth and shiny Hestan stove, to its Chef’s Counter hewn from a single tree. Dining alone this night, I was seated at one end of said counter, closest to where Chef Chris Bleidorn was expediting. As […]

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